The Prada Show I Return to Every Fall
Shells. Beading. Fur. Feathers. Fringe.
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“How can anyone be happy with so much terribleness around, with so many reminders of all the problems that exist? But sometimes, thank God, someone feels happy anyway.” —Miuccia Prada
Happy Prada week. On Thursday in Milan, Miuccia Prada and her co-creative director Raf Simons made a case for ugly, free flowing clothing that could be worn to the opera during an apocalypse. Even the orange sheen of the runway was likened to hazmat suits.
“I think we are at a turning point, where it (fashion) will go completely commercial or more moral,” said Mrs. Prada in an interview with the New York Times in 2020. Five years later, undoubtably Simons and Prada have chosen the latter. The daily horrors of the news are inescapable, and yet, we wake up every morning and get dressed. In ugly, practical, whimsical clothes or otherwise. We put our best foot forward. We try.
The Rise of Fascism and Minimalism
NYFW has come to a close and left something to be desired. Aside from the first runway of Diotima and Zankov—nothing made me want to run to my closet and mess around. There was a sense of emptiness, and anyways, I wasn’t in the mood. My general feeling of existential dread and the seemingly suppressed creativity coming down the runway speaks to a greater cultural divide that is perfectly said by Anu Lingala on their trend strategy newsletter What’s Anu?
There is a connection between free speech, escapism (or sociopolitical avoidance) and what we decide to put on our bodies. Now is not the time for chic minimalism. Now is the time to be loud! To dress fully and strangely! To take chances! To wear things that spark real conversations, to talk to people face-to-face, to get off your phone and go out into the world.
Does Fashion Activism Exist?
Critics say that fashion doesn’t have direct political impact—but it can foster conversations and provide resources to issues that matter. U.K. designer Conner Ives “Protect the Dolls” t-shirt went viral after closing his February show at London Fashion week. Since then, their team has raised and donated $600,000 to Trans LifeLine a trans-lead US-based charity that delivers life-saving services to those who need them most. Pre-order shirts are now out of stock, but you can (and should) support Trans LifeLine here without creating more textile waste and adding another shirt to your closet.
“They are so glamorous…but they have guns.”
An illustration of a woman in a red dress with a high slit hangs on the wall, pointing a gun at someone out of frame. The soft brushstrokes of her hair and glimmering pistol usher in obedient guests to the Fall 2017 Prada show. Reclaimed pinup posters are scattered around the room, drawn by Robert E. McGinnis, an illustrator of Barbarella and the Bond movies of the '60s and ‘70s. When asked about the patriarchal gaze behind the images Mrs. Prada responds “they are so glamorous…but they have guns.”
I can’t help but see a sense of youthful idealism in the space. Perhaps Mrs. Prada is taking us back to her university days in Milan in the late 70s, with shearling pink bedspreads and teenage postered walls, where she received a doctorate in political science and canvassed for the Communist Party. She tells the New Yorker about this time:
“‘Being so involved in the women’s movement then, and in everything that it was trying to accomplish, I thought that making bags or shoes or dresses was the worst way I could spend my time,’ she says.
‘I was embarrassed, since most fashion had been such a nightmare for women. And I never actually decided to become a designer. Eventually, I found that I was one. I wanted to be something more. But I am what I am. Not everyone can be Albert Schweitzer or Karl Marx.’”
The show's title, “Continuous Interior, Prada 2017,” is plastered at the front of the runway. The show notes read: “We have decided to look at the role women had in the shaping of modern society, their political participation, and social achievements.” The women marched out in chunky knits, feathers, fringe, dangling bright beadwork and shell necklaces—what can only be described as “too much”, feminine and a force to be reckoned with.
This show begs the question; what would it feel like to wear an outfit that can only be described as “all personality pieces” put together? To consider the texture of an outfit (mohair, leather, fur, metal, shells) and how it moves or SOUNDS (!) when you enter a room (feathers, fringe, dangling beading, scarves, the clicking of heels). I decided to try my hand.
Dressing In The Style of Prada Fall 2017
Something I cherish about my closet is that almost every article of clothing allows me to take up space. They’re oversized, they’re flowing, they’re comfortable. I am no longer trying to shrink my body, spirit, or wardrobe. For most of my teenage years and into my 20s, my outfits and mentality stayed rooted in 90s diet culture with the expectation that I should dress in a way that was “flattering.”
I don’t show up perfectly 100% of the time, but I am trying to reclaim what I choose to put on my body as a place of neutral expression. I can wear whatever I want—so long as it makes me feel confident. A runway of my own.
Almost Like the Real Thing
I took my outfit inspiration and decided to make some collages meant to stretch our imagination, inspired by (and not replicas of), Prada Fall 2017. Almost everything below is secondhand or vintage, and I tried to keep things under or around $200. And again, you don’t need more things, but if you feel inspired…think power, think whimsy, think…why the hell not?
More is More Femme Fatale / Look 12
Shocked by how many gorgeous beaded lambswool sweaters from the ‘50s I found. Is it Prada? No, but it certainly does the trick. Here is the turquoise pictured above—$72, size S-M. I also love this plus size option (but maybe make an offer because there’s one small hole!)—$124.95, size 1X
Miss Sixty tank top—$150, size M. This Harley Davidson pinup tee goes hard also.—$33, size XL.
Sies Marjan silk and snakeskin yellow layered skirt—$62.50, size S-M.
Pink satin Miu Miu heels with pearls—but beware of tariffs—$250, size 38.
Blue and brown cable knit scarf—$14.99, love this striped mohair Loewe one too—$147.50
Charles Albert shell cluster necklace—$119
1920s art deco blue ostrich feather evening bag—$270.46
When It’s Cold Outside But Hot On the Subway / Look 1
Fendi beaded bags have gotten SO expensive on the resale market but the suede beaded mules? Will be just as fierce and save you a thousand bucks—$247.10, size 39.5 (they run small, more like an 8.5/9)
Maryam Nassir Zadeh blue knit bra top—$125, size XS/S.
Vintage Michael Kors brown and orange fur belt—$40, size M (up to 34 waist)
Chocolate brown UNIQLO corduroy pants—$49.90, ok sorry these are new! Unisex, multiple sizes.
Vintage Elizabeth Arden gold shell necklace on black cord—$12.50
Vintage olive green shearling jacket—$150, size S-M. I really like this double breasted blue wool peacoat here too—$56 Men’s 50 or Men’s XL.
Pink and brown emu feather scarf—$52
The Return of Boho Chic / Look 29
Moschino Jeans floral blazer—$212, size L
Dusan brown silk dress with fun draw waist ties—$180, S-L
Red INC snakeskin boots—$50, size 8.5, love these 80s red boots too—$150, size 7 and Chloe red snakeskin ankle booties—$221.25, size 39
Charles Albert cuff bracelet with red abalone—$44.99
New York Hat Co. suede green newsboy hat—$59.95, size S
Armani black suede and leather fringe crescent bag—$75
Ginger 2-ply ostrich feather boa—$47.99
Sexy Extended Sizing / Look 24
Vintage Sears wool sweater, in my mind this is tied around the waist or around the shoulders—$55.28, men’s size XXL
Ester Manas Blossom pink top—$144.11, sizes (XS-3XL)
Vintage Liz Claiborne olive suede jacket—$80, size 22, I like this pink jacket too but it isn’t real suede—$45, size 20W
Oversized Shell Necklace—$57.60 (this looks like a replica of the Prada runway one listed below [spoiler alert] for $$$)
Ester Manas Blossom pink skirt—$108.08, sizes (XS-3XL)
Diesel fur belt—$350, multiple sizes. I also love this leopard fur belt—$86.25, size S
Coconuts by Matisse brown teddy mule—$89.99, (20% off with code CRISP) multiple sizes
CUUP high waist underwear—$20, (multiple sizes up to 3X)
Silk blend red and animal print burnout scarf—$14
Menswear Tea / Look 34
Men’s Orange Isabel Marant Sweater—$87, size S, love this olive green Massimo Alba mohair sweater too—$191.25 Size L
Two hat options!!! Ford Racing vintage blue baseball hat—$19.99 or Red Kangol apple fur hat (comes in navy and black too for the less adventurous)—$85
James Bond no time to die t-shirt—$12.99, Size 2XL, I also love this Barbarella t-shirt with slime green text which is very Prada—$20.89, sizes S-5XL
Sterling Silver vintage shell pendant (slip in on that gold chain I know you have)—$149.95
Vintage Suede Brown Leather Jacket With Belt—$298, Size M, this is a good vintage suede brown bomber jacket for much less—$49.99 size L-XL
Sies Marjan Wool Mustard Yellow Pocket Pants—$79.50, Size M
Loewe wool striped scarf, looks like it’s in great condition—but make an offer—$288
Vintage acme blue cowboy boots—$48, size 11
An 80s Night Out / Look 6
Vintage YSL Rive Gauche purple leather jacket. Buy this so I won’t—hand on the trigger!!—$246, size M-L
Martiniano blue leather sock booties, these are expensive but supposedly last forever—$328, size 38.5
Any leos want to wear this Gucci gold lame floral headband?—$200, NWT
Christian Lacroix vintage lace bodysuit—$112.50, size L
Moschino Cheap and Chic fringe mini skirt—$180, size S-M
Blue boa with ostrich feathers—$40, but watch out for tariffs
Dalmatian jasper pendant necklace—$200, also like this red shell necklace for less—$49
Grey shearling bag—$117
And finally…my dream coat / Look 19:
Brown suede jacket with pink faux fur—$84, size S (starting top left corner)
Vintage brown leather jacket with brown shearling detail—$68.75, size L-XL
Marni red shearling fur vest—$276, size L
Vintage Mongolian curly lamb fur jacket—$349, size M
Reversible faux fur and suede hooded jacket—$145, size M-L
Brown fur jacket with leather waist detail—$230, size M
Sandy Liang leather jacket with pink shearling—$607, size S-M
Soler pink and burgundy fur vest—$99, size S
Shrimps Color block faux fur jacket—$268, size S-M
Vintage turquoise blue leather and rabbit fur jacket—$95, size S
Sandy Liang blue wool jacket with shearling detailed back—$655, size S-L
Vintage pink and purple feathered jacket—$625, size XS
Sies Marjan pink shearling coat (this is my favorite of the bunch)—$500 but make an offer, size S-M
Lane Bryant pink faux fur jacket—$61.99, size 22/24, love this vintage suede pink chore coat—$45, Size 20W
Fuchsia vintage shearling jacket—$310, size S-M, love this one but it’s more of a pink suede work coat—$41.50, size S-M
90s red leather aviator jacket with removable hood—$188, size M-L. This one without the fur is pretty great too—$84, size S
That’s all for now. Thank you for getting this far—next week I’ll be back with Part 2, Prada under $200.
xo
Kalli
so excited to see all the wool and leather come out this fall!