How to thrift when you're easily overwhelmed
Anyone can thrift with a few helpful tools. I promise!
Whether we’re intimidated by the amount of clothing in thrift stores there is to sift through, or the classic vintage store smell—there are ways to break through the second-hand barrier and make thrifting a resource for you. As someone whose wardrobe is made up of 80% clothing that is second-hand, it’s one of the small ways I can make more eco-conscious decisions while helping my pocket book.
There is so much clothing out there that already exists and the news cycle can be bleak (like the fact that there is a landfill in Chile that is now visible from space). I understand that sometimes it can be hard to know where to start! And although this issue can’t be solved on an individual level (big corporations I’m looking at you), whatever it is we’re looking for, no matter how specific—I bet you can find it online or in person with a few helpful tools.
Five Things to Remember While Thrifting
Go in with a plan. Before you enter the space, make a wishlist of items you’re looking for either mentally, or in the very fashionable notes app. I like to make mine per quarter (or season) and try to stick to it as best as I can. It’s a good way to navigate impulsive purchases, trends, or things that might not serve you. There are of course exceptions to the rule, but my wishlist is comprised of basics, gaps in my closet, and things I’m potentially willing to buy new. If you don’t know where to start, consider wardrobe staples or items that you love to wear. Have you found yourself wanting another layering piece (think a workman jacket, blazer, or button-up)? Are you still looking for the perfect summer smooth-brain outfit (a chic dress you can easily throw on or pants that always feel just right)?
Your wishlist can be as long or short as you like! Think of what you already have in your closet, and what could help elevate or ground you further in the style that feels like “you.” Once you have a clear idea of what you’re looking for, when you enter the sprawling, musky thrift store, remember that you don’t need to go down every aisle unless you want to. Head directly towards the sections of the things you need and if you come up empty-handed, that’s ok! Instead of spiraling thinking your best find is right around the corner—maybe just leave.
Natural fibers are preferable, but don’t let synthetics scare you. Checking for natural fibers like cotton, silk, and wool may be better for the environment, wear well over time, and are long-lasting—but you have to like the clothing style and not just the material. Maybe you found an inexpensive cashmere sweater, but do you actually like the sweater? Grab another soft, 100% cotton t-shirt, but know that the breathable fabric won’t keep you super warm in the winter. My tip is to do a little homework on what fabrics already make up your closet and start paying attention to the materials you find yourself reaching for the most. It will help guide you while you shop. Stylist and writer Subrina Heyink (who you should follow) has an amazing article called Fabric Composition: 600% silk, 200% spandex, that further explores the good/bad binaries of natural fibers and synthetics.
The idea that we should only wear natural fibers because it’s the most sustainable option is a myth made up to sell shapeless linen-and-flax sack dresses and saggy sweaters. You think I’d walk away from the best-fitting blazer I’ve ever owned because it has 20% polyamide? Please grow up!—Subrina Heyink, “Are You Wearing That?”
And yes, synthetics are derived from plastic, but not all synthetics are created equal. There is a difference if a designer is using synthetic blends as a means to achieve a certain design or shape (such as the joyful draping and bouncing of Issey Miyake pleats), versus it being just the cheapest option (all fast fashion). Whatever second-hand item you reach for, let it be something you enjoy. It already exists. Don’t beat yourself up about it and wear it well.
Check the ends of racks. Have you ever put back something you liked but wasn’t sure about? Oftentimes, people will leave their forgotten items at the end of the rack. When you’re in an aisle that is aligned with an item on your wishlist, start on the ends to find any leftover treasures and make your way towards the middle. Notice texture, color and general vibes that stick out to you. Most importantly—don’t forget to breathe while you enter the rack vortex. If it starts to feel endless, know when to walk away. You don’t make it to the the other end!
Try things on. I’m sorry to say but you should absolutely try items on in store. If you can, wear something that’s comfortable to thrift in, and potentially something you can layer items on top of in the dressing room or aisles. Shirts, button-ups and jackets you might be able get a general idea without trying on, but pants, skirts and dresses can vary in sizes dramatically. Especially because you won’t be able to return it, you don’t want to spend money on something that almost works but then you never wear.
Make game-time decisions. If you’re on the fence with a piece or you find something you love that’s not on your list, try imagining 3-5 different outfits you could make with it. Pictured below are my absolute dream pants by one of my favorite designers Christopher John Rogers that I got for my birthday a few years ago. They make me feel like me whenever I wear them. Whatever you find, whether it’s a wardrobe essential or something niche, imagine how it will integrate with the rest of your clothes before you smash or pass.
When in doubt, take your thrifting online
If the thrill of the chase doesn’t keep you going in person, there are so many ways to find what you’re looking for online. My favorite place to look lately is eBay and Etsy, but I’m also a big fan of Poshmark, Vestiaire Collective and unfortunately The Real Real. If you have specific designer pieces in mind, why not do a little research and find the seasons you enjoy. One of my top searches is Prada 2017, and if it doesn’t prove fruitful I end up searching for fabrics, colors, and my size.
Last thing to keep in mind with online vintage resale—know your size. Oftentimes sellers will add the measurements of each item to their info, so make sure you are aware of what would work and what wouldn’t before making a purchase. More than likely, if it’s not already listed, send the seller a message and ask! They should add it. Contemporary sizing is much different than vintage, so never assume it will fit. Your best bet is to take a piece of clothing you love, lay it flat and take measurements. This can be your going off point!
Maybe curated thrifting is for you
I read an article the other day (watched a TikTok) that made the case for why we should stop shopping at mega-thrift stores like Goodwill and Salvation Army, but instead visit local thrifts in order to divest from major corporations and keep money in your community. Although I think there is a time and a place to shop anywhere second-hand, there are so many resources available to find the perfect vintage store near you. Smaller stores or shopping consignment can also be more approachable with less ground to cover and a curated selection.
If you’re New York based, The NYC Vintage Map has 353 vintage, resale and thrift stores separated by neighborhood. The Thrift Shopper can help you find a thrift store anywhere in the U.S. with over 12,000 stores for you to explore. Here are a few other consignment stores in NYC and nationally:
NYC Consignment Stores:
$-Under $100 −Under$250$-Under $500
Lara Koleji $$
Kalimera $$
Tokyo Joe $$
Nomad Vintage $$$
Chickees Vintage $$$
Procell $$$
Plus-Size Consignment:
That’s all for now! Let me know if you come across the special piece you’re looking for in the comments. I’d love to hear about your finds and how they made getting dressed easier or more fun.
xo Kalli
Loved this piece!! I recently scored a 2001 Coach hobo bag for $12 at my local goodwill. It’s one of my best finds :)
Love all of your articles, so obvi really loving this one 😻😻😻 and might I add, Desert Vintage for another $$$/$$$$